Vietnam: Motorbikes, Adrenaline and the American War

Click here for Vietnam Photo Highlight Album

It has been almost exactly 41 years since the Fall of Saigon at the end of the Vietnam war and Liberation Day at the end of the American War, which correspond to the same event and place, depending on who you ask.  It’s incredible to think about the transformation Vietnam has undergone in our lifetimes…  from an impoverished and politically isolated (the US trade embargo lasted until 1994) to one of the fastest growing economies in the world.  We feel fortunate to be at a time in history where could have the opportunity to experience this amazing country—from the vibrant controlled chaos of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh city, to the stunning beauty of Halong Bay and plunging canyon waterfalls in the central highlands—traveling through Vietnam was fantastic, and even better because Tracey (Carolyn’s sister) was with us.

We started our trip in Hanoi (the capital) in the north part of the country.  Our first night we braved the chaos of the old quarter streets to sit on tiny plastic chairs at a roadside shop and eat some Pho (pronounced “fuh”—who knew?) and get some of the cheapest beer in the world (~$0.50 at a restaurant). Lesson learned in crossing the bustling streets teeming with honking motorbikes—just keep walking, and whatever you do- don’t stop or run.  The controlled chaos flow is almost magical.  

The next day Tracey arrived-   Hooray!  We introduced her to the excitement that is a walk around town and went to a water puppet theatre- a cultural program that included singing, indigenous instruments and the most bizarre and charming puppet show we’ve ever seen.  Who wouldn’t like puppets without pants dancing in water along with fire breathing dragons?  (video clip here)

The next day we left early for a cruise on Ha Long Bay to Bai Tu Long bay where we spent a relaxing two days cruising and kayaking around one of the  new natural wonders of the world and eating some of the best food of the entire trip so far. Liam and Xander have come a long way from our Thailand trip 3 years ago when they only ate rice.  Now they eat pretty much everything and are chopstick experts to boot. The kids went squid fishing at night and we had the wondrous surprise of the water being bioluminescent and leaving a fluorescent trail wherever we splashed (!). We woke up early to learn Tai Chi on the boat deck while we slipped by the limestone karsts in the still water.  Unreal.  (video clip here) 

Tomb Mosiac

After returning from Halong Bay it was back to Hanoi for a motorbike tour of the city before catching an overnight train to the “Imperial City” of Hue about 13 hours south.  On the motorbikes, we didn’t even flinch (that much) going through the round-abouts.  After resting in the hotel for a bit, we headed out to explore the Citadel ruins—the North Vietnamese army seized most of the city during the Tet offensive (1968).  The US initially didn’t bomb the area because of its religious and cultural significance but eventually the restrictions were lifted and many of the structures were destroyed further.  You can still see the bomb craters and bullet holes in the remaining walls.  Because the city is now a UNESCO site, the area is being restored and preserved.  The next day we went hiking in Bach Ma national park—“hiking” is a bit of a euphemism for the rock scaling and cliff crossings we navigated to make our way down to the gorgeous rhododendron waterfall.   The last day we braved the oppressive heat and toured the emperors’ tombs and pagoda before sweating it out at the steamy train station waiting for a delayed late night train to Nha Trang.   For both trains we were in the “hard sleeper” bunks with 3 bunks on each side.  The trips were surprisingly not bad, although poor Tracey powered through somehow getting over 40 blistering bug bites on her legs (we think at dinner).  Hooray for anti itch cream. 

Nha Trang is a party beach town full of (of all things) over weight and sunburnt Russians in small swim suits.  We enjoyed bobbing around in the South China Sea until the tide (and the trash) came in.  We walked to the Po Nagar Cham towers (built in 700s) and enjoyed a mud bath and pools at a local hot springs.  We also watched “Good Morning Vietnam” where we empathized with Robin William’s description of the weather: 

"Fool, it's hot! I told you again! Were you born on the sun? It's damn hot! It's so damn hot, I saw little guys, their orange robes burst into flames. It's that hot!”

Next it was up the windy hillside to the Da Lat in the central highlands.  Oh, heavenly cooler altitude.  We took a countryside tour where we checked out flower farms, scaled slippery rocks to a waterfall, ate crickets, saw a huge happy Buddha and Jim drank some weasel poo coffee.  Seriously, they make coffee from beans eaten and pooped by weasels (some of the most expensive in the world.) I’ll stick with crickets. 

family bonding

Xander jumps after a waterfall rappel

The following day was one of the most exciting of the trip—we went canyoning. The trip involved rappelling down cliff faces and waterfalls, rock sliding backwards over rapids, cliff jumping and going through the “washing machine” where you abseil down a waterfall until the cliff face disappears then you have to drop down on the rope vertically until the rope runs out, at which point you’re dropped into a narrow canyon where you’re whipped around underwater for several seconds until you pop out downstream. Wow.  The guides got some great pictures of the trip—one memorable one of Xander ½ way down the waterfall.  I told him he should put the picture up in his locker so he can remember how brave he is.  “Middle school is a different kind of hard,” he responded.     

Filling out our planes, trains and automobile checklist, for our final stop we flew to Ho Chi Minh city (formerly Saigon) that was even more insane than Hanoi (and broiling to boot.) We were psyched to meet up with some friends that we met on the Great Barrier reef and we all went on a tour to the Cu Chi tunnels.  The Cu Chi tunnels are a vast network of (extremely small and narrow) connected underground tunnels cover over 200 km used by the Viet Cong (video clip here). Part of the tour included a documentary/propaganda film from the early 70s that talks about the “evil Americans” that leveled the area with bombs and the brave guerillas (including a “little girl whose father was killed in an American attack”) who earned championship titles for killing American soldiers.  We also saw the many innovative and horrifying traps that the guerillas created to hurt and kill soldiers.  I won’t even get into what we learned about Agent Orange.  It was very sad to be where so many villagers and young soldiers killed each other.  I’m pretty sure the kids are going to struggle in  American history when they get to the Vietnam war because of the different facts they’ll read in US textbooks.  We found the Vietnamese people to be some of the most friendly and hospitable we’ve met on the trip so far.  What a difference a few decades makes.  I wonder if Xander and Liam will make a similar trip to North Korea, Iraq or Iran when they have kids?

Ho Chi Minh cross walk

It was wonderful to travel with intrepid Tracey, who could not have been more easy going/ fantastic travel planner.  Not only did she not complain about the gazillions of awful bug bites and an impressive bruise on the butt from falling on the rocks at the elephant waterfall, but she forgave me for slipping and falling and knocking her back into the river when we were canyoning (hey, I stayed up).  That’s what sisters are for, right?  The coolest part of the trip was seeing her “break through the fourth wall” with the kids because she got (had?) to spend so much time with them.  Best memory from the trip was watching Tracey and Liam laughing so hard that tears were streaming down their faces because of a faceswap snapchat picture they took of themselves.  Great minds, and all that J

Now we’re back on our own and in Cambodia exploring temples at Angor Wat.  They’re so cool it makes up for the fact that it’s 105 degrees!  Hard to believe we’re over ¾ done.

Senses:

Carolyn: Slowly moving my arms through Tai Chi poses as we glide through the serene still waters of Bai Long Bay, cruising by tree covered limestone karsts; grasping tightly to the frayed cord as I scale my way down a slippery cliff to make it to the gorgeous waterfalls and lakes in Bach Ma national park; the pitch black of the top of the Po Nagar Cham tower seemingly going up forever within the ancient temple filled with reverent bowing worshippers and fragrant incense; the quick crunch of the cricket in my mouth followed by the many minutes of trying to dislodge its spiny legs from between my teeth

Jim: The peaceful hum of the gong reverberating high over the many shades of green of the dense rain forest as we walk in the Bach Ma national park to the helicopter lookout built by the Americans in the "American" war; the brilliant colors of the ornate decoration of the emperors tomb completed by his successor using mosaics made from ceramics, glass, and bottles; climbing up the dragon stairs to the bonzi lined Buddhist temple with the three peaceful buddahs inside and then meandering to the back to find the electric blue giant happy buddah towering above us wishing us happiness and good fortune; the awfulness of war shown at the cu chi tunnels through human traps, tunnels, repurposed bombs, and other “innovations” that the Vietnam communists developed to fight against the French and then the Americans to maximize killing and minimize direct fighting.  

Xander: The mist shrouding the limestone karsts as we peacefully motor along the rubbish filled water Halong bay; My hands grasping the back seat handles as my motor guide weaves through traffic like a spider weaving its web in Hanoi; the fiery heat of the sun absorbed by the blackened dragons lining the stairs as we climb up to the tomb in Hue; My ears popping as we drive along the windy mountain road leaving the white sand and red Russians behind in Na Trang; The water pounding down on my shaking body as I repel/slide down the 20 meter waterfall to a 10 ft drop into the river's abyss

Liam: The giant waves of red and yellow fabric creating a gargantuous vietnam flag perched atop its noble black cement stand at the Citadel in Hue; My knuckle whitening grip on the frayed plastic rope loosening as I look at the golden shafts of sunshine piercing the body of the emerald green lake on our venturesome hike in Bach Ma national park; The small brown grass top umbrellas scattered across the white sand beach as turquoise blue waves crash onto the shore at nha trang beach; The small gritty mud granules pushing up against my teeth as I dunk my head once again into liquid silk mud; The great glowing red aura of the burnt orange orb slowly falling behind the pollution/clouds to create an amazing scene at the Ho chi Minh airport

Tracey: The feeling of warmth and joy overtaking my exhaustion as I see my family come down the stairs after traveling for 24 hours to arrive at the hotel in Hanoi; the surge of fear quickly replaced by amusement as we zip through the roundabout with countless other motorbikes from various directions; My skepticism melting into relaxation as the chocolate milky mud filled up the tub and soothed my fiery bug bite ridden leg; the exhilarating drop off the first waterfall abseil rewarding the hard work put in to get down to the final pitch