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Monday, August 1, 2016

Europe, The Return: Museums, Open top Buses and Western Civilization

**Better late than never... we were in Europe in May, and road-tripping around the western US in June.  We’re home trying to settle back in now, but trying to catch up on the last few blogs from the trip!**


After an epic day of travel back to Colombo, a stopover in the Maldives and an 8-hour layover in Istanbul, we finally arrived in Rome and completed our 39,000 mile Rome to Rome around the world plane ticket.  We immediately drove through the mountains to the Italian hillside town of Petriolli where we had the pleasure of spending a few days with CO Rotary friends Carolyn and Paul in the “hole in the wall” (as Liam described it) hilltop castle villa.  We chilled out, ate great food and played lots of cards—except for poor Xander, who was sick and ended up falling down the stone stairs in the middle of the night, getting a slight concussion, and sleeping through most of the visit.  Always an adventure. 
Enjoying the English countryside


Jolly good
After a restful few days reveling in our ability to brush our teeth with water from the tap, we flew from Rome to London, where we were picked up by Ken and Liz- a couple we met briefly during our Li River Cruise in China who kindly offered to host us if we ever came to London.  We have a lot of travel karma to repay after all the hospitality people have shown us across the world.  We had a lovely time with them checking out the local pub, watching lawn bowling, hiking in their beautiful neighborhood forest, and touring a manor estate of a former London socialite.  We spent the next few days in London at a flat near waterloo station. We loved exploring the British Museum and marveling at all the treasures that British explorers “obtained” from many of the places we travelled over the past year.  We’ve discovered that audio guides are the key to a good museum experience, as it’s much more interesting to learn the context and story behind artifacts then to just look at them.  I guess that’s true with most things.

GMT- where east meets west
British museum
The next few days we explored around town and went to all of the typical (and impressive) tourist spots including the Natural History museum and the Science Museum where we got to see things like the original DNA model (very exciting to Liam, who wants to be a geneticist), Westminster Abbey (wedding site of Royals and burial place of Darwin and many others), and Tower of London (prison of many a famous person destined for execution).   We went to a cheesy “live action” exhibition under the tower bridge where we learned more about London’s sordid history of war, murder, plague and fires.  Other highlights included meeting an expat friend and her family in the city, where we learned some of the finer points of having dual citizenship (our friend has to pay US capital gains taxes on her London real estate) and some of the intricacies of the Brexit arguments (before the vote).  One of the coolest excursions was taking a boat down the Thames (pronounced tems) to Greenwich (pronounced Grenich) to the Royal Observatory.  And here we thought we were finally back where people spoke English.  We stood with feet on either side of the prime meridian— one foot slightly to the west and one slightly to the east of 0 degrees longitude (and GMT).  It was fascinating to learn about the difficulties in calculating longitude (how far east or west you are)—especially on ships in the middle of the ocean—which they couldn’t really do well until 1700s.  Three cheers for GPS and google maps.


Tower of London

We took the Chunnel under the English Channel to Paris.  When we arrived at our apartment, we had to wait several hours in the hallway for the property manager to come let us in.  Although it was annoying and frustrating, it was a testament to our hard-learned travel “go with the flow” mentality that it wasn’t awful.  If only we can maintain this attitude once we return.

Art appreciation
Like London, in Paris we went to many of the top tourist attractions, including St. Chappell- a chapel that tells bible stories (most of which involve heretics being punished or martyred saints) through incredible stained glass pictures, and Notre Dame, where we caught the end of Sunday mass including the dramatic organs echoing throughout the cathedral.  We took a trip out to Versailles, the definition-of-ostentatious home of the Sun King Louis XIV who ruled France from the mid 1600s until 1715.  We also learned that Marie Antoinette probably didn’t say “let them eat cake”—although that didn’t save her from getting guillotined during the French revolution in the late 18th century.  Our highlight in Paris was the Louvre museum, where we took an audio guide tour of the masterpieces, including the Mona Lisa (smaller than you guess), Venus de milo (bigger than you would guess) and the winged victory of Samothrace (wow).  On the way home on the metro we were serenaded by a crazy character with baby dolls on his fingers as rings, dressed as a cross between a pirate and a circus performer.  Ahh, Paris.


It was a great capstone to the trip to spend the last few weeks overseas in two of the most iconic Western Civilization cities.   And we flew back to the states on points from our around the world ticket. Hooray.

Senses:
Xander: The purple flowers branching off the vines ensnaring the large old manor in the countryside of the south east of London; the Rosetta stone's carved hieroglyphs and other two languages conspicuous on its dark surface at the British Museum; the white marble wings spanned to their full extent as more tourists walk up the steps to see the winged and headless Greek god on top a white stone boat at the Louvre; the dark green hedges obscuring the gilded gold royal apartments of Versailles and the hundreds of tourist discovering the ostentatious palace.

Liam: The taste of the wonderfully cooked and made panini going down my throat as I throw down my cards to win a round of shanghai once again; The beautiful Italian countryside rolling along before my eyes as we leave the "hole in the wall" residence of Paulo and Carolina; the beef eater's intimidating and loud voice echoing across the  courtyard as he passionately explains the history  of the london tower; the helpless eyes of the injured baby bird staring into mine as I scoop it up off the sidewalk into my hand and put it over the fence to give it higher chance of survival.

Carolyn: The huge dome of the massive british museum arching above endless priceless artifacts acquired from across the world reminding us of our adventures across the globe; The many ornate tomb markers lining the intricate walls Westminster Abby hinting at history and encasing kings and queens of centuries past; The fragmented Greek marble statues of the Parthenon lining the walls of the cavernous British museum, oblivious to the fights over their rightful ownership and location in the world; The wide avenue of Champs de Ellysis leading up to the towering Arc de Triumph carved with French victories of old; The sound of the rain pounding on the glass roof of our funky bright paris apartment as we relax during our last day overseas


Jim: The intricate mechanisms of the clocks and other machines at the Royal Observatory designed to solve for longitude and the answer leading to control of the seas for England; the ostentatious decoration of the hall of mirrors and other rooms throughout the palace of Versailles showing the opulence and power of the Sun King; the stunning green, red, blues and oranges of the stained glasses of St Chappelle depicting the stories of the Bible in the towering stain glasses scenes; the finely crafted taxidermy animals covering every nook and cranny of Paris's Deyrolle shop inspiring awe and wonder on how these animals came to this place.