New Zealand heading North: Oceans, Hobbits and Fellowship

NZ #2 Highlight Album
Video clips

Mt Cook on the way North

Our three weeks in New Zealand after the Milford Track was spent going all the way from the SW of the south island to the NE of the North Island, contributing significantly to the 7000km we drove during our time in the country. We backtracked up through Queenstown and past stunning Mt. Cook for a stop in Christchurch, where we visited the Earthquake Center and learned about the devastating quake that pretty much leveled the city center in February 2011.  This is a town in which the locals are able to judge the magnitude of earthquakes by feel (as in “that was a 4.5”).  Hats off to this plucky town whose downtown is now filled with colorful shops inside of shipping containers, as they rebuild while bracing themselves for the next quake—including a scary one on this Valentine’s day that measured 5.7 on the Richter scale.

Dinner! 

Next we stopped at Kaikura, a gorgeous seaside town where we had a chance to see baby seals swimming in a forest river, eat mussels (that Xander loved-  see video) and go ocean fishing, where every time we put the line in we came up with something-  Xander caught a barracuda, Jim got a dog shark and I caught a 5 foot blue shark (!).  We also got lobsters and had a really yummy “catch and cook” dinner that night.  The next day we went swimming with wild dolphins (see video) —one of the most amazing experiences of the trip so far.  They drop you into the open ocean (luckily the shark didn’t hold a grudge) and tell you to make funny sounds to attract the hundreds of dolphins (but probably to amuse the tour operators).  Next thing you know there’s 10 Dusky Dolphins literally and figuratively swimming in circles around you.  Wow.

Larger than life Galipoli sculpture

Weta workshop

After a beautiful ferry trip through the Cook Straight (the boys watched “Heart of the Sea” on the journey and said it felt like 4D with the rocking) we made it to the bustling New Zealand capital of Wellington. After so long on the South Island, being surrounded by more people than sheep was a bit of a shock.  We toured the Weta Workshop, of Peter Jackson and Lord of the Rings fame, and were amazed at the detail that goes into developing movie props.  We also toured the set of the “Thunderbirds are Go” (unknown cartoon in the US but really popular in the UK/NZ) that contained intricate “maxitures” (big miniatures) that on closer inspection were comprised of everything from repurposed vacuum parts to computer motherboards.  The next day we went to the incredible Te Pa Pa museum and saw the WWI exhibit on Gallipoli.  The exhibit contained several larger than life “sculptures” created by the weta workshop of soldiers that looked like they could step off their platforms—all the way down to the scrapes on their knees and hair on their hands.  It was unbelievable. One sculpture was of a soldier that was so sick and exhausted he fell asleep while on watch.  He was going to be executed for dereliction of duty but was pardoned at the last minute—only to die in the campaign a few days later.    Even more poignant than the sculptures was learning that New Zealand experienced a 93% casualty (killed or injured) rate at Gallipoli.  Even Liam commented that the exhibit “is powerful.”

At the Shire

Next it was up through trout/volcano country to the waitomo region where we had the pleasure of staying with the first of several Rotary hosts.  After several long travel days, being greeted by a new friend and a wonderful home cooked meal was heaven.  I even had the opportunity to play piano duets with our host Laurel.  The next day we went on a “black water rafting” adventure through the Waitomo glowworm caves—also a trip highlight.  Floating down the pitch black cave in inner tubes gazing up at the constellations of thousands of glowworms while listing to our guide singing Maori songs was enchanting—until he smacked the water and shouted “moo” and scared us all to death (sometimes cows fall into the caves).  Next it was off to Hobbiton- the shire movie set, which was incredibly commercialized (hats off to the farmer) but still exceedingly charming.  We watched all of the “LOTR” movies while in New Zealand, and it was fun to walk in the footsteps of Bilbo, Frodo and Gandalf at Bag End.

Hot Water Beach

We spent the next several days in the “bach” (i.e., holiday home, pronounced like “batch”) of Rotarians Rob and Robbie on a lake outside of the geothermal “hotspot” of Rotarua.  We got the chance to meet Rob and Robbie in Auckland and loved hearing about their exploits from around the world including Lake Powell and other adventures.  The kids went zorbing (rolled down the hill in a giant gerbil ball- see video), swam in hot springs, attended a Maori huka feast where the boys learned how to perform a haka (see video) and went mountain bike riding through a redwood forest.  Liam’s highlight was kayaking across the lake in a tiny “weenie wave” kayak that Xander was too big for.  I don’t know what he enjoyed more—the independence, or the name of the kayak.  My highlight was that he didn’t capsize.

Next we headed up to Kae and Ivan’s beach house in Whitianga on the Coromandel Peninsula on the far NE of the North Island.  The best thing about the beach house was that Ivan and Kae came with us.  We loved hanging out with them as they helped us to discover their piece of paradise on the runabout (which we found out was a boat) that Ivan intrepidly let Liam and Xander drive and going on “tiki tours”  around the area to places like Hot Water Beach where we could dig into the sand and create our very own geothermal pool, introducing the kids to their first boogie board experiences and bringing us to a yummy ice cream shop that had servings so big liam couldn’t even finish (although Xander did).  Plus they taught us kiwi slang like “sweet as, bro” (awesome), “pack a sad” (be grumpy), “wot wots” (in the boonies) and “sparrows fart” (really early).  Finally, we made our way to Auckland, where we were generously hosted with Steph and Murray, who let the kids loose on their grandkids legos, showed us around the gorgeous north shore and took us to Muriwai to see the incredible onshore gannet colony on the west coast.

New Zealand couldn’t have been more “sweet as, bro”-- the scenery and adventure were only outdone by the friendly kiwis and their extrondinary hospitality.  Climbing mountains and swimming with dolphins will be experiences the kids will hopefully remember, but more importantly I hope they will internalize how the kindness of strangers transformed them into friends.

Senses
Xander: The truly dusky Dusky dolphins circling around me in the hazy seawater off the coast in kiakura; The sense of gloom and dread washing over me as we learn about the battle for Gallipoli in WWI that cost 93% of New Zealand’s troops; the greenish clear water quickly rising as the dam lets loose a torrent of water to crash over the highest of the rocks into the lower river of the aratiatia rapids in Taupo; the pitch black cave brightening as we get closer to another amazing view of the lush humid gorge through the old mine tunnel window; the glass-like water sparkling as I get pulled and pushed by endless waves into cathedral cove

Carolyn: The big round eyes of the seal pup shining up at us as it clumsily makes its way down the forest river back to the ocean; The shocking sight of the huge, muscular eel  dragged up from the depths with the crayfish pot on our fishing charter wiggling across the deck before making its way back out to sea through a hole in the boat stern; The sound of the Maori chant reverberating off the cave walls as we float silently down the black water river in inner tube gazing at the sparkling constellations of glowworms far above on the cave ceilings; The hair blowing and sweat glistening on the larger than life soldiers in the WWI exhibit, personalizing the grit, heat and futility of Gallipoli; The squawks and caws of the hundreds of gannets on the Muriwai colony as they stretch and flap their wings getting up the gumption to soar off the cliff.

Liam: the hundreds of seals spread about the Rocks doing their daily sealy business as I stand above them to watch; the wriggling and slapping of the prawn as I slowly pull it out of the hot geothermal prawn pond for the only victorious catch of the day at the Huka Prawn park; the old concrete military barracks, tunnels and windows painting a picture in my mind of a refuge city for the zombie apocalypse; the golden rays of sunshine poking out of the clouds creating a golden hue on the still ocean water above the small picturesque mercury bay islands

Jim: My snorkel muffled screeches turning to laughter as a group of five dolphins swim right under me to investigate; the industrial grey spaceship of the evil Hood set from Thunderbirds are Go put together from bits and parts of computers, water bottles, model frames and other "junk"; our philosopher guide instructing me to jump backwards off the first waterfall and following his instructions to result in a refreshing splash under a constellation of glowworms in the waitomo cave; the delicious taste of expresso coffee in the wonderfully relaxing bach overlooking the crystal blue waters of Lake Okareka

Milford Track: Rain, Waterfalls and New Friends

It's not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves. 

- Sir Edmund Hillary (Kiwi mountaineer & first climber to reach the summit of Everest ) 

Milford Track highlights album

The Milford Track across the fjordlands in Southern New Zealand is billed as “the finest walk in the world.”  (Although I’m not sure I would call a 4 day, 53.5km (33.2 mile) trek a “walk”).  Jim booked the trek almost a year ago- almost immediately after we bought our around the world tickets- to reserve us spaces as “independent hikers” at the 40-person Department of Conservation huts along the track.  The other alternative was to book a guided walk, that provided food and showers and cost over 10 times as much (NZ$150 vs. $2000).  The kids don’t even take showers anyway, so it was an easy choice.

Milford Track profile

We're off!

Honestly, I had a fair amount of apprehension about the trek.  I'm all for great scenery, but 3 days walking 10+ miles/6+ hours, with one day over a 1000m (3300ft) elevation change pass with a pack is pretty intimidating.  We also had some uneasiness about Liam.  10 is the minimum age for the hike (Liam is 10).  He’s a great hiker, but doesn’t always want to hike. Being with Liam when he doesn't want to be doing what he's doing is like getting your soul sucked out of you while being crushed by a boulder.  Oh, and the weather forecast a few weeks before showed freezing temperatures and 70kph (45mph) winds on the pass.  Yikes.

As the hike start date came closer, the weather report showed warmer temperatures, but lots and lots of rain.  When we showed up at the Department of Conservation station at Te Anau on Saturday to pick up our tickets for Monday they told us that they flown some people out by helicopter, and weren't sure if the trip was going to be canceled for future days.  The pass was getting 100mm (~4inches of rain) every 6 hours for 2 days (!) but things were looking better by Tuesday.  On Sunday, the DOC still wasn’t sure about Monday, but said that it would be possible that parts of the trail would be flooded up to our waist. The DOC had a discussion to see if we should even attempt it with a 10 year old (umm, what about a wimpy 43 year old?) and ultimately said that it was up to us based on if we thought he could handle it- Liam said walking through a river would make walking that far “fun and less boring”.

Sunday we forged ahead and picked up our rented sleeping bags, cooking pot and trekking poles.  We decided to get rain pants as well.  Jim and his masterful packing skills got everything into 2 big packs and a  day pack.  The packs were heavy, but at least they’d get lighter as we ate the food, and Liam wouldn’t have to carry anything.

Giving up on keeping the shoes dry

Monday morning we arrived at the DOC office to find out the trip was on!  We took the ferry about 1.5 hours to top the of Lake Te Anau and we were off. The first day is only 5k (1.5 hours).  It was pouring, but it is the rainforest after all.  We set off with a good attitude and a new love for rain pants.  One advantage of rain is it creates a continued maze of waterfalls that appear on every mountainside.    We crossed swing bridges and sloshed through the trail that was a toddler’s huge puddle-filled dream surrounded by mossy trees along a rushing river.  When the path turned into a river about 8 inches deep we gave up on the illusion of trying to keep our feet dry and plunged in literately and figuratively  Onward.

We arrived at the first hut early (before 2:00) and fairly soaked.  The 20 bed bunkroom was comfortable and we were able to sit in the cooking area by the fire.  We were regretting that we didn’t bring flip-flops, but a few sprints in the rain between buildings in wet shoes made us appreciate we weren’t in a tent.  We spent the afternoon learning how to play the card game 500 with a nice Australian couple from Melbourne.  Later in the afternoon, the group from the 2^nd ferry descended, including a group of 18 Koreans who swooped in draped all of their wet clothes everywhere and started to efficiently make an impressively complicated and pungent meal (we had sandwiches).  Also in the group was a family of 5 from Western Australia with 3 kids (boys 16, 14 and a girl, almost 11).  Hallelujah. One of the trekkers was a ~70ish year old woman who was doing the trek for the 4^th time.   She’s Swiss, of course.  We also met several Israelis who were traveling after getting out of the army. The evening was spent making new friends and listening to the ranger talk about the flora and fauna of the area.  The ranger was impressed that Liam knew why the flowers in the region are white (they are pollinated by moths who have an easier time seeing white at night) and the only mammal indigenous to New Zealand (bats).  Homeschool win.

Day 2: 16.5km, (10.3miles)  Early wake up due to the Koreans getting up at 4:30 for a fancy breakfast and 7am departure.  Ah, communal living.  After the deluge of the day before, we welcomed the drizzle.  We walked through the rainforest delighting in the birdsong.  Eagle-eyed Xander even spotted a Kea bird by the orange under its wings.  We would later learn that these “cheeky” alpine parrots would take/destroy any gear that was left outside of the huts—including eating the rubber off of hiking poles and stealing hiking boots (can you imagine?)—so we were instructed to tie our shoes together and hang them up high.  Not a danger I had anticipated.  Eventually, the path opened up to a prairie dwarfed by peaks with cascading waterfalls in all directions.  Around lunch we combined with the Australian family and a charming 29-year-old from South Carolina.  It was great for us all to have other people to talk to and walk with.  Xander carried the pack almost the whole day, including the big uphill at the end.  Hooray.  In the hut we played games with our new friends.  Many of the group (including Xander) were asleep by 6pm.
Day 3: 14km- Touted as the hardest day due to the going up and over the pass and back down 1000m.  Another cloudy (but less wet) morning saw us heading up the mountain-- kids in front, moms in the back.  Three cheers for the hiking poles! After a surprisingly not-so-awful 2 hours walking up, we made it to the top of McKinnon pass, left to imagine what surely are beautiful vistas that were shrouded in clouds.  We stayed long enough to add layers (those extra hats and gloves we bought at the goodwill store earlier int he trip came in really handy) and say hi to the Kea parrot that met us at the top.  We quickly made our way to the shelter, where we entered the "independent hikers" side of the hut, warmed up and shared lunch and hot chocolate (that we made ourselves).  We made Liam peek behind the separate “guided walkers” door-  they had food prepared for them.  We think maybe caviar ;)  The howling winds and sideways drizzle made me leery to head back out for four hours of grueling downhill.

And the clouds part

 However, 15 minutes down, the wind slowed and the clouds parted to reveal the river valley far below—proving (once again) the power of relativity.  The walk down was long and uneven, but gravity is good.  The boys even walked an extra 1.5 hours to visit a huge waterfall (!) and I fought the pressure of “FOMO” (fear of missing out) to enjoy a break basking in the sunshine.   That night we enjoyed our second dehydrated dinner (the Koreans were still making handmade sushi) and fought off sand flies- The bane of the trek, these awful “flying fire ants” cause welts (for some, namely me) that wake you up itching in the middle of the night for days. In Maori legend, when Te-Hine-nui-to-po, goddess of death, visited the spectacular landscape of Milford Sound, she feared the vista was so wonderful that people would want to live there forever. To remind humans of their mortality, she freed namu (sandflies), at Te Namu-a-Te-Hine-nui-te-po (Sandfly Point), at the end of the Milford Track.&nbsp Well played, Te-Hine-nui-to-po, well played.

Swing bridge

Day 4: 18km.  After our last early morning wake up from the Koreans, we had a relatively early start (8am) to hike the last day out to Sandfly point.  Although long, the walk was wonderfully flat and beautiful, with many (more) waterfalls and swaying swing bridges over incredibly clear mountain streams—and lucky for us, most of the water had drained from the previous flooding so we didn’t have to walk through any waist-high streams.   Liam and Xander spent the day walking with the other kids, and Jim and I hung back with the parents.  Liam did not give in to chivalry and carry Alicia’s pack (although she asked) citing her 3 month age advantage as an excuse.  Xander carried our pack the whole last day.  He rocks.  It’s funny to think I spent over 15 hours chatting with Louise—that’s probably more than I get the opportunity to talk with almost all of my friends at home.  We finished up around 2, just in time to catch an early boat and bus back to Te Anau.  Showers and a hot meal never felt/tasted so good. 

Liam says his muscles are bigger.  Xander said he would’ve gone on another trek the next day (as several in the group did.)  My feet have recovered at the cost of some really gross shoes (I’m checking on the REI exchange from abroad policy…) Jim is too nice to say “I told you so.” Our confidence in ourselves and each other is higher, and the hike proved to be a wonderful family accomplishment (and a fine "walk," indeed). 

Milford sound on the boat ride back

Onward and upward (north, in a car, thank goodness).